昨天H&M，今天耐克，BCI又是啥？CGTN带你探访新疆棉花工厂

3月25日，#H&M抵制新疆棉花#事件在社交媒体上持续发酵，那么真实的新疆棉花加工厂究竟如何？

---

魑魅魍魉：昨天H&M，今天耐克

事件曝光之后，“H&M中国”发布声明，但还是以各种借口搪塞。

3月25日，耐克、阿迪达斯等国外知名品牌也登上微博热搜。

耐克被曝光在2020年3月的一份声明中称，因其关注到新疆棉花工厂“强迫劳动”的指控，宣称它的供货商不使用任何来自新疆地区的纺织物及其加工品。

Nike has become the latest brand feeling the rage of Chinese netizens over the Xinjiang cotton issue.

The #Nike hashtag has been trending on Weibo this morning. 

Last year, Nike said in an official statement that it boycotted Xinjiang's cotton due to allegations of "forced labor" in a cotton factory located there and urged its suppliers not to use any textiles or processed products from Xinjiang.

The revived statement has stirred a raged discussion on social media and led to contractual breaks.

艺人王一博、谭松韵随即宣布终止与耐克合作：坚决维护祖国利益。

Chinese celebrities Wang Yibo and Tan Songyun cut ties with the sports brand.

---

CGTN记者实地探访棉花工厂

Aytlam Mamt talks to CGTN outside her factory, Awat County, Aksu Prefecture, Xinjiang, January 5, 2020. /CGTN Photo

阿瓦提县在新疆阿克苏地区素有“中国棉城”之称，CGTN带你一探棉花工人的日常生活。

许多纺织企业在阿瓦提县建立工厂，因为靠近棉花种植地，地理优势有效地为他们节约了成本。

河南一家企业在阿克苏阿瓦提县设立了棉花加工厂，该厂颇具规模，在2010年6月建成运营，至今已经近11年。

该厂设立三个车间，200多名员工，每个车间三个班，已经100%实现了机械化生产。

Northwest China's Xinjiang Uygur Autonomous Region has been rife with controversy over the years as security had been stepped up to tackle sporadic terrorist attacks. Accusations regarding government policies in the region are manifold, with the latest being poverty alleviation programs were actually fronts for employing forced labor in cotton mills. However, CGTN's latest trip to the region paints a very different picture.

The Xinfa Cotton Industry Company – located in Awat, a county under southern Xinjiang's Aksu Prefecture – is one of the largest cotton processing plants in this "Town of Cotton." Awat produces one-fifth of the world's long-staple cotton with silkier, lustrous, and more durable fibers, filling markets from Europe to North America.

Established by a textile corporation headquartered in a central China province a decade ago, the Xinfa so far has over 200 employees, mostly locals. 

Aytlam Mamt talks to CGTN outside her factory, Awat County, Aksu Prefecture, Xinjiang, January 5, 2020. /CGTN Photo

阿伊特拉木•马木提是一名细线班的班长，她从2010年开始在该棉花厂工作。

今年35岁的她，每个月扣除五险一金后，可以拿到2800-3000元左右的工资。这份工作既让她摆脱了家庭主妇的身份，还为她的家庭增加了收入。

One of them, Aytlam Mamt, started working here in 2010. Now responsible for leading one of the mills, she makes 2,800-3,000 yuan in after-tax income each month. "I had worked in a textile plant before I got married, so I chose to come here when my son was six years old as I'm already quite familiar with the whole manufacturing process," the 35-year-old woman told CGTN.

---

BCI究竟是啥？

BCI（Better Cotton Initiative）即“良好棉花发展协会”，是一个非盈利组织。它于2009年在瑞士成立，自称为全球最大的可持续棉花种植项目。

据其官网数据，截至目前，BCI在全球拥有2100个会员，包括零售商、供应商、制造商以及社会组织等，其中不乏一些全球知名品牌。

2020年10月，BCI 在其官网却发表声明称，由于新疆持续遭到“侵犯人权”和“强迫劳动”等指控，将立即终止新疆地区的所有现场活动，包括能力建设、数据监控和报告等。

这一份声明现已被删除。

2021年3月，BCI上海代表处的微信公众号发表声明

“BCI中国项目团队严格遵照BCI的审核原则，从2012年开始对新疆项目点所执行的历年第二方可信度审核和第三方验证，从未发现一例有关强迫劳动的事件。”

该声明还称，“BCI上海代表处将与新疆执行合作伙伴继续保持沟通，共同维护供应链可持续发展。”

这样“表里不一”的行为，很快引起了国内外网友的反感和抨击。

3月24日，安踏体育在微博发表声明称退出该组织。声明还称，安踏一直采购和使用中国棉产区出产的棉花，包括新疆棉，在未来也将继续采购和使用中国棉。

BCI, which stands for Better Cotton Initiative, a non-profit organization, was founded in 2009 in Switzerland. It claims to be the largest cotton sustainability program in the world. According to its official website, this organization now has more than 2,000 members across the globe, including retailers, suppliers, manufacturers, and civil societies. 

In 2020, BCI published a statement saying it suspended licensing and assurance activities in China's Xinjiang Uygur Autonomous Region because of "sustained allegations of forced labor and other human rights abuses" in the area. This statement, however, is missing on its website now. 

---

国内外网友反应如何？

是时候反击西方的虚假信息了。一条可靠证据都没有，全靠一张嘴。

-为什么他们认为新疆的棉花采摘过程侵犯了人权？

-哦！因为他们自己就这么做过。

这就是我觉得最可笑的部分。中国是世界上最大的棉花进口国，中国能把新疆的棉花都消费掉，且还需要更多。如果这些愚蠢的公司认为他们能给中国“施压”，他们就大错特错了。

---

天下棉仓

01

02

03

04

05

滑动查看更多

国家统计局的数据显示，2020年新疆棉花产量达516.1万吨，较前一年增长3%，占全国棉花总产量87.3%。

新疆也是我国优质长绒棉唯一生产基地。

据《新疆少数民族劳动就业调查报告》显示，村民自愿外出就业意愿平均值高达86.5%。截至去年底，全疆累计脱贫292.32万人，贫困发生率由2014年的19.4%降至1.24%。

几年来，新疆棉花做到了解决就业，减轻贫困，却为屡遭外媒的诋毁，被污蔑为“劳改营”或是“血汗工厂”。

Xinjiang provides over 80 percent of China's cotton. Since this cash crop is a lucrative business, big factories and processing plants have popped up, many of which are affiliates of established companies from the more affluent inland areas.

---

商务部回应H&M抵制新疆棉花：希望纠正错误做法避免商业问题政治化

针对H&M等跨国企业发布抵制新疆棉花的声明，商务部新闻发言人高峰在3月25日的例行新闻发布会上回应说，所谓中国新疆地区存在“强迫劳动”，完全是子虚乌有，纯白无瑕的新疆棉花不容任何势力抹黑玷污。

事实胜于雄辩，真相不容玷污。

China urges foreign companies, including H&M, to correct mistakes and avoid politicizing commercial issues, said a spokesperson of China's Ministry of Commerce on Thursday, adding the "flawless Xinjiang cotton do not allow any forces to discredit and contaminate it."

---

#你怎么看待这一事件呢？

推荐阅读：